The Westminster Buildings. By Pete Evans
The Westminster Buildings as viewed from beside the thatch-roofed Horse and Jockey pub.
I first visited the centre of Wrexham, in the northeast of Wales, on a cold November day in 1980. I remember standing under the archway in Hope Street, opposite the Horse and Jockey pub and wondering for what purpose the grand building had been erected. It didn’t seem to lead anywhere, and what were those mysterious bricked up entrances on either side?
It was some years later that I learnt that the building had been erected by William Low as a dowry for his daughter, and then repurposed as the entrance to the Wrexham Agricultural and Scientific Exhibition of 1876. That rather dry title does little justice to what was one the most significant art and industrial exhibitions to be held outside of London in the nineteenth century.
Back then, those concealed entrances would have led to a pair of museums. Beyond them a covered entrance, lined with statuary and tropical plants, had a dining room (1st class), refreshment room (2nd class), buffet (no class stipulated) and reading room. It led to a great hall with ornate Grecian columns supporting a glass roof.
A cornucopia of art treasures.
Within the great hall was a gallery which housed a vast display of art treasures. There were priceless paintings by, amongst others, Rembrandt, Van Dyke, Rubens and Raphael. Numerous loaned items included the rosary carried by Mary Queen of Scots to her execution and a watch which had belonged to Charles the First.
My favourite item has to be the precious pebble of Owain Gwynedd. A visitor described it as a beautiful thing – a smooth, egg-white translucent ball. An accompanying card gave details of how it was said to prophesise the death of the head of the family when a crack in it widened imperceptibly.
Labor Omnia Vincit
The Latin phrase beneath the coat of arms on the street sign in the arch translates as work conquers all, and it gives an indication of Wrexham’s industrial vigour. Around the periphery of the gallery was the industrial area, with steam engines and samples of steel, bricks, leather goods, ales and beers.
Amongst the textiles on display was the wonderful Wrexham Tailor’s Quilt or Coverlet. It had taken James Williams a military master tailor, over ten years to painstakingly stitch it together from over 4,500 separate pieces of cloth. It shows images from across North Wales as well as scenes from the bible.
The wide-ranging display lavishly showcased Wrexham’s considerable industrial portfolio and the skills of its workers.
The exhibition was open for twelve hours a day, seven days a week for four months, during which time, the resident orchestra would have entertained as many as 80,000 people.
Who was William Low?
Many people know the building as the Argyle Arch. The road which leads through it is signposted as Argyle Street. This name reflects the birthplace of William Low, a talented civil engineer who came to the area to work on the Chester to Holyhead Railway. He went on to work on the construction of the Ceiriog and Dee Valley viaducts and become a joint owner of the Vron colliery.
Channel Tunnel Innovator
Low’s experience in digging tunnels to mine coal, and in establishing railways, led him to form the Channel Tunnel Company. His ambition was huge. He commenced tunnelling from Dover towards Calais where he had also bought land. Sadly, his plans were scuppered by the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War in 1870.
A plaque located on the wall of the arch, is shown in the centre above, with its unveiling details on the left. William Low’s monogram from the centre top of the arch is shown on the right.
The wonderful plaque shows Low’s plans for two parallel tunnels connected by service passageways – not dissimilar to the tunnel which was finally opened in 1994, one and a quarter centuries later.
The grand exhibition wasn’t the only significant event to take place in Wrexham in 1876. Many events are being planned for next year to celebrate the 150th anniversary of its ‘year of wonder.’
The arch is just one of the numerous must-see places on a tour of Wrexham. I am a fully qualified Green Badge Tourist guide, join me on a walking tour to see and experience much more.
Tours are bookable through Wrexham VIC and Eventbrite. Enquiries to tourguidepete@btinternet.com, or see my webpage:-